By Cynthia Unninayar
From a historical point of view, Antwerp has stood at the epicentre of the global diamond trade. Through wars, economic depressions, shifts in the balance of rough diamond production, and the birth of new markets for diamond jewellery, the Flemish city has cemented its role as a capital of the international diamond business. The slogan ‘Cut in Antwerp’ embodies more than 550 years of diamond heritage, which, for centuries has been—and still is—a trademark of supreme quality and craftsmanship.
Today, Antwerp continues to confirm its leadership role in the global diamond trade. More than 84 per cent of rough diamonds and 50 per cent of the world’s polished diamonds are traded in the city, thus providing customers a wide selection. Last year, a total of 227.2 million carats of rough and polished diamonds were traded, with a value of $58.8 billion US, surpassing the 2012 record of $56.5 billion US.
Yet, these record-breaking figures are in sharp contrast to the difficult situation for individual diamond traders. The announced winding down of the Antwerp Diamond Bank and the narrowing profit margins felt in diamond hubs throughout the world have resulted in a tough year for diamond traders locally and worldwide.
Against a backdrop of good trade figures for rough, but increased pressure on polished diamonds on the local industry, the sixth annual Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair (ADTF) opened its doors on Feb. 1 for three days. Despite the cold and rain, the atmosphere inside the fair was warm and enthusiastic, with most of the 90 exhibitors indicating their satisfaction with the show. Organized by the Antwerp World Diamond Centre (AWDC), the invitation-only ADTF has become so well recognized that fair officials lamented the fact they received many more requests to exhibit than they could accommodate.
“Since 2010, Antwerp’s diamond bourses have expended serious efforts to raise their profiles in the international diamond, gem, and jewellery markets,” explained Thierry Polakiewicz of the ADTF organizing committee. “Over the years, the ADTF has proven to be a very effective platform to introduce diamond-buying jewellers and qualified diamond buyers to Antwerp’s diamond business community. This year, we welcomed delegations of first-time buyers from the Middle East, China, and Eastern Europe, as well as from North Africa, in particular from Algeria.”
In addition to the show itself, the fair organized a variety of networking events, including a gala dinner, visits to diamond grading labs, and informative breakfast seminars, which included very informative talks by Marijan Dundek from Graff in London and Katrien De Corte, HRD’s chief officer of education.
Strolling the corridors in the three historic halls provided opportunity to see a variety of beautiful diamonds ranging in size from a few points to many carats, from whites to intense fancies, and from traditional cuts to very original shapes.
Even before seeing the diamonds, the booth at Beauty Gems was an attention grabber, with a prominently displayed logo and world map made entirely of diamonds. Created by Liesbeth Cleen, the map featured more than 2000 stones, for a total weight of 21.83 carats, while the brand’s logo weighed 52.42 carats. Cleen stated she was happy with the response to the display, as well as with business conducted at the show. Beauty Gems also sold a wide variety of black diamonds, but noted they did not sell as well as the whites.
In the fancy colour category, Antwerp Cut, a natural coloured diamond manufacturer since 1989, showcased an incredible assortment of coloured stones, among them purple, red, green, and blue. The brand’s suite of intense yellows attracted a great deal of attention. “These natural yellow diamonds are from the Zimmi mine in Sierra Leone, and present a level of saturation that sets them apart from ordinary gems,” explained Mike Akiki, the company’s managing director. “They are among the very few natural colour diamonds that can be cut into traditional round brilliants, while keeping a superior level of colour.” He added it took him years to collect the 20 round brilliant-cut Zimmi diamonds used to create the one-of-a-kind layout showcased at the ADTF.
Many of the exhibitors have been long-time ADTF participants, among them Rosy Blue, selling one point to 10-carat white stones. A fifth-year exhibitor, Dalumi featured stones from 10 points to 20 carats, as well as a range of fancy yellows. Coming to the fair since its beginning, 82-year-old Nasielski & Son, a family business now run by the sixth generation, offered a range of small to large stones, mostly round, but some square and princess cuts. “I think the ADTF is an excellent idea and very necessary,” said Michel Nasielski. “Despite the challenges facing the industry, diamond demand is worldwide, so the industry’s future is assured.”
While most companies carried a wide range of diamonds, generally from three points to five to 10 carats in a variety of cuts, a few specialized in rose cuts. Among them was Vulcan. Its rose cuts varied in size from two to eight carats, DE/VS+, all cut in India, along with a few other specialized cuts.
Pear shapes were among the many special cuts seen at the show. Brachfeld, a fifth-generation company, featured a range of beautiful calibrated pears in .25 to 2.5 carats, DEF/VVI+. “Pear shapes are our specialty,” said Chaski Brachfeld, who expressed satisfaction with the show. In the exclusive-cut domain, Krochmal and Lieber showcased the Korloff and Lucére branded diamonds.
Innovation has long been a hallmark of Antwerp’s diamantaires and this year was no exception. Without a doubt, the most unusual diamond at the ADTF was the Buddha cut. In the shape of a meditating Buddha, it has 33 crown facets, 21 pavilion facets in addition to the culet, and a polished girdle. Available in three different versions, these tiny sculptural diamonds weigh between .30 and three carats, and are 5- to 12-mm in height. Laser-inscribed with an individual serial number on the girdle, they are manufactured by Antwerp-based Buddha Diamond Co.
On a different note, in addition to featuring its range of white diamonds from 30 points to 10 carats, SDE Group displayed a special app designed for its clients who resell to other customers. They can log onto SDE’s basic website and diamond inventory, but then can upload their own logo and desired mark-up before showing the site to their own clients. “It becomes like their own website, with their own prices,” explained Liat Edelstein.
Next year’s ADTF will be held at the end of January . Entry to the fair is by invitation-only and the invitations must be obtained directly from the organizer, either by recommendation from one of the exhibitors or by registering on the ADTF website. All buyers must produce verifiable documentation they are qualified members of the gem and jewellery trade.
