By Dr. Lucille Daver
Intense yellow diamonds, also known as “fancy yellow” or “canary yellow” diamonds, present a yellow pigment due to nitrogen atom impurities in their crystalline structure. These stones are incredibly rare. The legendary Tiffany Diamond, discovered in 1877, is renowned as one of the largest yellow diamonds in the world. Not only is the diamond an incredible feat of craftsmanship, it is irreplaceable in gemmological history. With a width of 30 cm, this 128.54-carat brilliant cushion cut has only been worn by four individuals, each in different settings.
A jewel through the ages, from discovery to icon
Discovered in South Africa’s Kimberley Mine in 1877, the 287.42-carat (57.484-g) rough of this intense yellow diamond was purchased by Charles Lewis Tiffany, founder of Tiffany & Co., the following year. At a time when very few yellow diamonds had been discovered, the purchase, completed at US$18,000, helped cement Tiffany’s self-proclaimed title of “King of Diamonds.”
The rough was sent to the Tiffany & Co. Paris branch to be cut by gemmologist Dr. George Frederick Kunz. He studied the stone for a year before beginning to cut it. With unrivalled skill and precision, Kunz transformed the rough into a cushion-shaped brilliant of 128.54 carats and 82 facets—maximizing its brilliance and revealing the diamond’s extraordinary fire
and beauty.
The Tiffany Diamond very quickly became a national treasure and a symbol of American luxury. It was exhibited at prestigious events, including the 1893 Chicago Worlds Fair and the 1939 New York World’s Fair. In 1955, the diamond made a rare appearance in Tiffany & Co.’s showcases—where it was displayed in the hands of a gold wire angel. In 2006, the diamond was on display in Washington, D.C., during a celebration of the Smithsonian Museum of Natural History’s National Gem Collection. However, outside of the occasional special exhibit, the diamond is carefully displayed in Tiffany’s flagship store along Fifth Avenue, New York City, NY.
Set in stone, a treasure worn by legends
Although millions of people have admired the Tiffany Diamond, very few have had the privilege of wearing it. In fact, it has only been worn by four women in its lifetime. In 1957, Mary Whitehouse wore it to the Tiffany Ball in Newport, RI. For the occasion, it was mounted on a river of 64 diamonds and suspended from a 20-diamond pendant. Shortly afterward, as one of his first artistic initiatives, Jean Schlumberger—the iconic 20th-century designer and vice president of Tiffany & Co. at the time—set the legendary diamond into a high jewellery piece: The famous Ribbon Rosette necklace.
In 1961, Audrey Hepburn wore the necklace for publicity photographs promoting her film Breakfast at Tiffany’s. This moment helped immortalize the diamond in popular culture, forever setting its association as one of brilliance, timeless elegance, and Hollywood glamour.
After Hepburn, the diamond returned to its case in the Tiffany showcase. Yet, despite its status as an irreplaceable piece in Tiffany & Co.’s collection, the company published an advertisement in The New York Times in 1972, offering the diamond for US$5 million—approximately US$25 million (C$34.5 million) today—to anyone who could come up with the money within a strict 24-hour deadline (any cheques mailed after this date would be returned with thanks). Of course, no one was able to acquire the diamond.
In 1995, during the Jean Schlumberger retrospective at the Arts Décoratifs Museum in Paris, the diamond was again set in one of the jeweller’s most popular creations: Bird on a Rock. Then, in 2012, to commemorate Tiffany’s 175th anniversary, the diamond was mounted in a new setting and suspended from a long chain adorned with more than 100 carats of diamonds.
The necklace in its new mount was worn by Lady Gaga at the 91st Academy Awards in 2019 and by Beyoncé for Tiffany & Co’s ‘About Love’ campaign in 2021. The two artists completed the look with elegant black dresses and matching gloves, paying homage to Audrey Hepburn’s iconic style in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. The return of the diamond to the red carpet, after decades in the shadows, sparked enthusiasm among jewellers and gemmologists.
A contemporary tribute to a classic design
In 2023, in honour of Tiffany reopening its Fifth Avenue flagship, also called “The Landmark,” the legendary Tiffany Diamond was set in a new design paying homage to Schlumberger’s iconic Bird on a Rock design.
This reimagining by Tiffany & Co. designers features five diamond-encrusted birds in flight surrounding the imposing yellow diamond. The birds are hand-set with more than 75 carats of diamonds: 1,220 round brilliant-cut diamonds, 35 oval diamonds, and 10 round pink sapphires. This high-jewellery creation can be worn as both a pendant and a brooch.
The Tiffany Diamond’s cultural significance
An exceptional stone, both for its impressive size and for having remained in Tiffany & Co.’s possession since its 19th-century purchase, the Tiffany Diamond was estimated at US$30 million (approximately C$39.6 million) in 2019.
The history of the Tiffany Diamond goes far beyond its size or value. Its association with cultural icons such as Audrey Hepburn, Lady Gaga and Beyoncé, as well as its rare public and cinematic appearances, have made it a timeless symbol of luxury and refinement. From its discovery in the Kimberly Mines to its place as the undisputed jewel of Tiffany & Co, this diamond is much more than just a precious stone: It is a testament to fine craftsmanship, history and timeless elegance. The Tiffany Diamond has returned to its display case on Fifth Avenue, where it patiently awaits its next opportunity to shine in the spotlight once again.
References
1 King, J. M., Shigley, J. E., Gelb, T. H., Guhin, S. S., Hall, M., & Wang, W. (2005). CHARACTERIZATION AND GRADING OF NATURAL-COLOR YELLOW DIAMONDS. Gems & Gemology, 41(2).
2 https://www.naturaldiamonds.com/culture-and-style/tiffany-and-co-bird-on-a-rock-brooch-jean-schlumberger/
3 https://press.tiffany.com/our-story/the-tiffany-diamond/
4 https://www.tiffany.com/high-jewelry/the-tiffany-diamond/
5 https://vogue.ph/fashion/jewelry/tiffany-diamond-will-be-reset-in-a-jean-schlumberger-inspired-design/
6 https://press.tiffany.com/tiffany-co-introduces-the-about-love-campaign-starring-beyonce-and-jay-z/
7 https://press.tiffany.com/assets/the-legendary-tiffany-
diamond-fitted-specially-for-lady-gaga-for-the-91st-academy-awards-3/
I think you mean 30mm, but if the Diamond is 30cm it really is worthy of the hype.