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Changing perceptions: Is pearl jewellery still relevant?

By Olga Shevchenko

PICCHIOTTI “Essentially color” ring in red gold featuring a 16 mm black Tahitian pearl and round diamonds of 3.86 carats. Photos courtesy PHICCHIOTTI

A few years ago, attitudes towards pearls and pearl jewellery began to shift after a period of oblivion. Today, there is no need to speak about the beauty, timelessness, elegance, and value of pearls. Nevertheless, their status has changed.

Pearl jewellery has become omnipresent. Celebrities and powerful women wear pearls. Popular styles of late are not limited to only statement pearl earrings, necklaces, or rings. Ropes and ropes of pearls can be seen adorning the necks of the discerning customer, and pearls are often used as embellishment on clothing, bags, and shoes. Wearing pearl jewellery has become a big trend, and almost everyone wants to follow trends. Let’s take a look at how customer preferences for pearls have shifted in recent years.

PICCHIOTTI 18K white gold coral pendant necklace with diamonds and south sea pearls.

Diversity

An important factor that makes pearls so attractive is their diversity. Pearls are a very favourable material for jewellery design due to their great variety—they may have various colours, shapes, and sizes. So, with pearls, jewellery designers can create a wide range of pieces, from glamorous classic designs to fresh, new, and bold ones. 

Beautiful and timeless pearls are used by contemporary jewellery designers to create fresh innovative, and, sometimes, audacious pieces of jewellery. Just think of pearls that are carved or embellished with gemstones! As a result, there is pearl jewellery for any taste and personality.

Towards imperfection

More and more avant-garde designs featuring pearls can be seen in the market. This move is a response to a request for various modern designs incorporating pearls, enticing pearl lovers to purchase more innovative and distinct pieces. 

In effect, consumers’ preferences have changed. Years ago, we knew and appreciated solely classic pearl jewellery made of small round lustrous pearls. Then, other pearls of different shapes or colours were either very rare or not known at all. Currently, however, customers enjoy discovering beauty in imperfection.

A casual affair

I want to mention a very important and, even, startling phenomenon—pearl jewellery has become a fashion-forward and chic fashion accessory. Consequently, the manner of wearing pearl jewellery is changing.  Instead of being the symbol of high-end galas and official events, or at least elegant office wear, it has become the jewellery for casual, everyday wear as well. Pearl jewellery is now wearable! Women can be seen pairing their pearls with jeans and T-shirts.

Akoya 10 pearl ring in 18K gold by Sean Gilson for Assael. Photos courtesy Assael

Layered and stacked

On the one hand, delicate pearl jewellery is feminine and classy. On the other hand, as a trendy fashion accessory, pearls may be layered. Layering jewellery pieces, including necklaces and chains, has been a big trend for many years and it has now extended to pearl designs.

A younger demographic

Forty to 50 years ago, pearls were rejected by the younger generation as “outdated!” Today’s generation, however, shows a genuine interest in pearl jewellery. Wearing a delicate, classic white pearl necklace is incredibly popular among young, fashion-forward girls.

More than this, young girls are proud to wear heirloom pearl jewellery that used to belong to their family members.

Pearls for the modern man

We need to speak about another important trend, pearl jewellery is becoming unisex. Pearl pieces are often favoured by fashion-forward men. There is nothing new about men wearing pearls. Just recall King Henry IV of France, Henry VIII, Charles I, and others. Contemporary fashion-forward men just continue this tradition.

Assael “Silk” pearl necklace, featuring 8.5-9 mm Japanese Akoya pearls on a 18K gold chain.

Distinct shapes

More and more customers are looking for pearl with weird shapes, like baroque pearls. Such pearls are indeed rare and beautiful. For instance, Keshi pearls. As Keshi pearls are pure nacre, they astound with their wonderful rainbow colours and weird shapes. 

As each baroque or Keshi pearl is unique, jewellery designers have a great opportunity to create unconventional pieces of jewellery with these amazing pearls.

Assael earrings featuring six Keshi south sea cultured pearls of 7.66-20.95 mm connected by four diamonds.

Mix and matching

Moreover, customers enjoy pieces featuring pearls of different sizes and even textures, or pearls paired with coloured gemstones. As colour is very important in jewellery, mixing pearls with coloured gems helps to achieve different goals. For instance, it can highlight the beauty and purity of the pearls, to create a contrast and ensuring the piece stands out.

Today, the design and creativity of a pearl piece is crucial. Indeed, what we see now is a reinvention of the traditional pearl through designs that take a customary material and apply it in a new and fresh way.

Of course, this does not mean we forget about timeless and classic pieces of pearl jewellery. Classic pearl jewellery is eternal. A simple elegant pearl necklace featuring quality round white pearls is and will always be loved and worn. As Yves Saint Laurent said, “Fashion fades, but style is eternal.”

Olga Shevchenko is an Ecole de Gemmologie de Montreal and Gemmological Association of Great Britain certified gemmologist and a gem and jewellery appraiser. She has owned the business Jewelry Olga since 2009, where she designs and creates unique contemporary pearl jewelry. She combines her passion for jewellery with her expertise in freshwater pearls. Olga Shevchenko can be reached via email at info@pearljewelryexpert.com.

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