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Emerald dreams

Western Boyacá

Armed guards scrutinize visitors to the Muzo mining area. Security is tight  in the entire region.
Armed guards scrutinize visitors to the Muzo mining area. Security is tight
in the entire region.

The next morning, we departed early for an 11-hour ride to western Boyacá. Hours were spent on deeply rutted roads zigzagging along the spectacular steep mountains and deep valleys blanketed by lush rainforest.

Our destination was the high-producing Cunas Mine, near Muzo. During our walk through the 800-m (0.5-mile) main tunnel, we came to an area with no forced-air ventilation. “Hurry through this section,” we were told, to avoid breathing too much of the built-up carbon dioxide. It makes one wonder about the early miners who didn’t have the luxury of clean air pumped in.

Arriving at an impressively large circular shaft, a ‘lift’ took us down 100 m (328 ft). Torrents of water rushed at us in a secondary tunnel, giving pause as to what would happen if the pumps should fail. Despite the cool water at our feet and dripping on our heads, the mineshaft was like a sauna, with temperatures reaching 40 C (104 F). Finally, we reached the active face. Under the watchful eye of a closed-circuit monitor, a small crew carefully removed the gems from the calcite vein and placed them in a locked pouch. At the end of each shift, the supervisor takes it to the surface.

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