Colourful classics with modern edge: Fall runway trends to feature in the jeweller’s showcase

by Samantha Ashenhurst | September 19, 2023 4:33 pm

By Duvall O’Steen

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Fashion’s favourite season is coming soon, and the fall runways in New York, Paris, London, and Milan were full of bold styles, vibrant colours, and classic silhouettes. Of course, what’s hot in fashion undoubtably influences the types of jewellery people wear and purchase. As such, staying in tune with the fabrics, cuts, and shades making a splash on the runway can influence purchasing decisions for savvy jewellery retailers and ensure showcases are stocked with pieces set to move. What’s more, in addition to striking clothing, the fall/winter 2023-24 fashion designers showed off an impressive display of jewellery!

Monochrome fashion in red, black, and metallic

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Scarlet red was the stand-out colour of the season, as seen in a wide variety of exciting collections, including Stella McCartney, Proenza Schouler, Tory Burch, Sandy Liang, Patbo, Prada, Ferragamo, Valentino, Marni, and more. The look is mostly monochrome with all-red dresses and gowns, as well as pantsuits and outerwear—even in tartan at Burberry and Thom Browne. The strong, exciting hue dominated the season, prompting Harper’s Bazaar to declare, “Red is the new pink.” The look extends to accessories, with bright pops of colour in crimson boots and handbags, or ruby and red coral jewels.

Black was also ubiquitous, either monochrome or in black and white combos. Head-to-toe black styling in gowns, pantsuits, and overcoats (or, as Vogue put it, “the great black coat”) reigned at Versace, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Jason Wu, and Balenciaga, among others. All-black leather was prominent at Brandon Maxwell, Saint Laurent, Chanel, and Louis Vuitton, while black was offset with classic white at Emporio Armani, and Chloé. In jewellery, black cuffs and earrings brought a modern edge with sleek sophistication.

Metallic fabrics, in multiple hues, added a dose of sheen for the season. Futuristic silver (à la Barbarella, according to W Mag) was especially prominent, as seen at Paco Rabanne, Rick Owens, Rodarte, Ferragamo, Gucci, Blumarine, and more. Shiny fabrics glistened in other colours, like gold at Simone Rocha, Emilia Wickstead, and Dries Van Noten, shimmering green at Bode, and purple or indigo at Emporio Armani and Dundas. These looks call for precious metal jewellery to accessorize, such as statement silver pieces and high-polish gold chains, hoops, or cuff bracelets.

Butter yellow was also a micro-trend, seen at David Koma, Sergio Hudson, and Givenchy.  Jewellery retailers and designers should expect to see more of the sunshine hue for spring and summer 2024. Yellow diamonds are also expected to continue trending.

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Classic tailoring (and neck ties)

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Classic tailoring was seen in many collections—especially in suits, basic button-down shirts, and oversized blazers. The many lingerie-inspired looks and bralettes were popular on the runway and felt very modern. Throwbacks to the 1980s were prevalent, with shoulder pads at Thom Browne, Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, along with many wide, or bold-shouldered, power suits. These were often cinched for an hourglass silhouette and, occasionally, worn with no pants (for example at Sergio Hudson, Miu Miu, and Valentino).

The classic white blouse is also set to return to glory this fall at Valentino, Dior, Alexander McQueen, and many more. The long, thin necktie was also a recurring theme, especially on many of the button up blouses seen at Valentino, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana. White pearl earrings and strands complement the look perfectly.

Cozy-chic

Comfort continues to play an important role, post-pandemic. Large, cozy shawls and/or hoods were seen at Burberry, Marni, and Etro, while fuzzy fabrics and clutches were featured at Gucci, Proenza Schouler, Khaite, and Ferragamo. Feathers also made a playful appearance, softening looks at Loewe, Bottega Venetta, Burberry, and JW Anderson. Brooches were worn on wide shawls and expect smoother stones like coral and turquoise to offset the feathers.

Reinvented denim is also trending for casual-chic relaxed wear, including denim-on-denim looks—even shorts worn with suits. Comfortable styling was seen in the many lingerie-inspired styles, like sheer fabrics, slip dresses, lace, micro bras, and lots of luxurious satin or silk.

Funky earrings

Chunky or long earrings were the top trend from the fall/winter 2023-24 runways, with WhoWhatWear stating, “If there is one jewellery piece to buy for fall 2023, it is the chunky earring.”

Oversized earrings were seen on the lobe as clusters and large floral buttons, or as super long dangles, bold hoops, and, especially, pearl drop earrings. Jewellers looking to replenish their inventory should be aware that certain earring classics, like hoops and pearl drops, will be popular in the months to come, as these styles pair well with both the power shoulders and the lacy lingerie looks that dominated this year’s runways.

On-point earrings that are not large are definitely long, representing a continuing trend from spring/summer 2023. Shoulder grazers add a sense of flair and movement, especially to tailored jackets, tucked blouses, and belted suits. Hoops are flaring out and earring cuffs are also trending for an urban, edgy, and sophisticated look.

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Statement necklaces and pearls

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Necklaces this fall will be bold and high on the neck. The “necklace-gate” trend calls for bib styles, dangling Y-chains, or bejewelled collars nestled in the collarbone. Pearls continue to be popular and prevalent, with Vogue claiming, “The pearl is truly here to stay.” Large or jumbo pearls were high on the neck at Givenchy and Versace or dangling from the earlobe at Dolce & Gabbana, Chloé, Giada, and more. The “pearl-core” (or pearl revolution) trend shows no sign of waning and goes beyond strands, including especially baroque pearl drop earrings in various styles and jumbo pearl rings, too.

Brooches, florals, and bold bracelets

Flowers provided an excess of inspiration for the season. Vogue called it the “I Can Buy Myself Flowers” trend, noting the prevalence of big florals, especially in earrings for autumn/winter 2023. Button earrings with a wide variety of flower colours and styles were seen at Armando Grillo and Filippo Fior. Jewellers should be sure to stock floral brooches and pendants, as well as button or drop flower earrings.

Brooches also make a return this fall, with statement-making styles for both men and women. Pins of all sizes were seen on the chest at Schiapperelli, Coperni, and Gucci, and otherwise on the lapels of many of the power suits or big-shouldered blazers and outerwear for the winter months.

Bracelets continue to be chunky—mainly bold cuffs or stacked up bangles, and especially arm cuffs. Oversized bracelets were worn on both wrists at Brandon Maxwell, and arm cuffs were seen at Tory Burch, Jonathan Simkhai, and Missoni.

Fresh and fabulous

Overall, the colder season ahead is alive with excitement in bold monochrome colour, classic tailoring, and interesting mashups (like shorts with power suits, blazers with no pants, and lingerie with outerwear). The good news for jewellers is these trends call for bold and modern accessories—not necessarily things already in the jewellery wardrobe. Look for shoppers asking for chunky but lightweight earrings, interesting brooches, lots of pearls, and floral jewels. Wear them in good health and great comfort!

[7]Duvall O’Steen is a New York publicist, writer, trend reporter, and luxury communications consultant, specializing in the fine jewellery industry. Following more than a decade of service as director of jewellery PR and promotion for World Gold Council, O’Steen established her own freelance business in 2011, providing her expertise and creativity to jewellery designers worldwide. She is also a jewellery publicist for the boutique public relations firm Luxury Brand Group.

Source URL: https://www.jewellerybusiness.com/features/fall-fashion-2023/

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