Adam Graham, chief executive officer of Erica Courtney, Inc., says designing around unique and rare gemstones is a point of differentiation. Price shopping is a significant concern among retailers, he says, as consumers make the rounds to get the best deal. Creating one-of-a-kind pieces avoids the pricing battle and helps turn the curious into a collector.
Designing jewellery that invites consumer loyalty by offering the ability to mix and match across collections was also a noteworthy trend. Canadian designer Hera Arkarakas is careful to create pieces that have continuity, whether it is in the finish or the use of the metal du jour, which this season happens to be pink gold.
“I love to design jewellery that works with our existing lines,” she tells Jewellery Business. “I want people to be able to wear all the pieces interchangeably.”
The self-purchasing woman looking for daring and edgy designs that can be worn just as easily during the day as they can when the sun goes down continues to be the key demographic for many designers, says Arkarakas. Attention to design detail is critical, she stresses.
“I believe the back of a piece of jewellery should look as pretty as the front,” Arkarakas says. “Pendants move as we move. They flip and the backside should be interesting. To me, having a finished back means the piece has been designed well. It also gives me a place to put my logo and create brand awareness, which is important.”
Carolyn Thamkul, executive vice-president of Belle Étoile, says jewellery should complement all facets of a woman’s personality.
“You can’t tie a woman down to one simple emotion,” Thamkul explains. “She’s many things, which is why jewellery is a form of expression and of really showcasing how she feels. Today, she’s fun and flirty, tomorrow, she’s classy and vintage. We do that in our apparel and in our handbags and accessories, but jewellery is what really shines because of its materials and colours.”
The use of vermeil was also more apparent, as it is being more widely accepted as a substitute for gold, says designer Frederic Duclos. (Vermeil comprises gold plating over sterling silver, unlike traditional gold-plate that goes over base metals like brass or copper.)
“Today, vermeil jewellery retails in much higher price groups,” Duclos said. “It’s now mostly reserved for fine jewellery stores and if they don’t carry it, they will miss sales because other retailers like gift stores don’t carry it anymore [and we’ve seen demand for it.]”
