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In the trenches: The challenges of working as a retail gemmologist

Make no mistake

The radiating lines on my refractometer remind me to rotate a stone and take multiple high and low RI readings until I have turned it at least 180 degrees.
The radiating lines on my refractometer remind me to rotate a stone and take multiple high and low RI readings until I have turned it at least 180 degrees.

Once you start cutting corners, mistakes happen and they will come back to haunt you. Take the time to do things right the first time. In other words, never forget the basic methods of gemmological identification. Pretend as if your client is a gemmology instructor testing you in the real world with a hidden video camera recording everything you say and do.

Personally, I find it helps to act as if I’m on the witness stand in a courtroom performing my tasks and duties, knowing full well the opposing side has a professional gemmologist prepared to rebuke my testimony and question my testing procedures. The scientific testing protocols you apply in the store should be the same ones you would expect a lab or research gemmologist to meet themselves.

Why does all this matter? Well, there are more treated gemstones and diamonds, not to mention undisclosed lab-growns, in the supply chain and finished jewellery than ever before, which goes to the need for careful examination and proper testing procedures. It is critical you understand not only what your tools and instruments can do, but more importantly, what they can’t do. This is particularly important where synthetic diamonds are concerned, but that’s a topic for a whole other article. Suffice to say, there are some basic testing methods to help flag a stone for advanced testing, some of which were covered in the gemmology column appearing in the August 2015 issue.

In future articles, I will show how you can make some of your own gemmological tools, equipment, and instruments that will hopefully help make your job easier and less costly. We’ll also talk about building and assembling a world-class retail gemmological laboratory and how you and your store can benefit from advertising this fact. Gemmological identification is at the heart of our industry in terms of continued consumer confidence. In the end, maintaining a well-equipped retail gemmological lab and providing accurate information regarding a stone can only help further the public’s trust. After all, isn’t that what we all want?

La Shawn BauerLa Shawn Bauer is a senior bench jeweller, graduate gemmologist, and professional appraiser of gems and jewellery. With more than 36 years of experience in the jewellery industry, he has taught courses in both advanced gemmology and jewellery appraising, and has appeared as a speaker and guest lecturer at various industry events. Bauer is also a mentor for budding gemmologists, bench jewellers, and jewellery appraisers. He can be contacted via e-mail at lashawn308@yahoo.com.

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