Inspiring appreciation
The Queen appreciates a good foliate motif—she’s inherited a charming diamond-encrusted maple leaf brooch from her late mother and very enerously has loaned it out on occasion to Kate and Camilla. Also in the royal collection is a platinum and diamond pin in the shape of a dainty fern frond, gifted to the Queen by loyal subjects in New Zealand. And to celebrate St. Patrick’s Day, various royals have also been seen sporting a very simple yellow gold shamrock brooch by Cartier, set with a single emerald. It really elevates the idea of “wearing of the green” to new heights.
Farther afield
Palmette motifs from the highly ornamented archeological revival period are a fanciful representation of palm leaves evoking the mysteries of ancient Egypt. Usually in yellow gold, these stylized leafy designs are seen predominantly on deeply fluted multi-drop pendants hanging from fringe necklaces and earrings, decorating wide bangle bracelets and also frequently embellishing historic diamond tiaras. Representing antiquity, Greco-Roman neo-classical designs depict laurel wreaths and acanthus motifs.Â
On antique items, a series of intricate foliate engravings—either palmette or laurel leaf or just artistically imaginative—often decorate the edges of gold, silver, or platinum compacts, minaudieres, etuis, or cigarette and card cases. Pocket watch fobs and seals from the Georgian era and art nouveau lapel watches frequently bear leafy elements. Tiffany & Co., silversmiths designed tea and coffee services in the 1860s with elaborate repoussé and chased leaf motifs ornamenting the body, footed base, and finials. Entwining grape leaves were a popular feature on household items. Such details contribute so much to the beauty of utilitarian items.
A truly admirable diamond brooch set in platinum and yellow gold, circa 1895, elegantly dangles seven ivy leaves on a curving knife-edge stem. It sparkles with mine-cuts accented by rose-cuts.
The genius of one of Faberge’s breathtaking eggs, a one-of-a kind treasure, lies in its realism. Dotted with rubies and diamonds, it is formed out of wirework green enamel three-leaf clovers, dates from 1902, and according to legend, is too fragile to travel out of Russia for exhibit elsewhere.
Tutti frutti pieces effectively depict carved emerald, ruby, and sapphire leaves as a dominant part of the overall design. Inspired by historic Moghul jewels, Cartier designers are extraordinarily adept at blending the modern with the traditional in their extensive use of this eye-catching concept, especially on wide strap bracelets.
