Let me set this right

by carly_midgley | June 19, 2018 8:16 am

By Kate Hubley

“The more light and sparkle a piece has, the more we are attracted to it—just like a person.”

~Rémi Sayegh, stone setter

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Have you ever gotten lost in the facets of an exquisitely cut gemstone or in the celestial patterns of a beautiful polycrystalline cabochon? They capture our fascination with the story of their journey from the depths of the Earth to their final destination: mounted in a stunning piece of jewellery.

To some, gemstones are charged with spiritual energy; to others, they are coveted opulence. Whatever the allure to our individual eyes, as we design and work at the bench, we inevitably want to include more gemstones in our work. They add depth, texture, value, and—of course—a glorious pop of colour and light. (More on gems and setting is at www.gemdat.org[2], www.gia.edu[3], or at www.ganoksin.com[4]. Another good resource is Creative Stonesetting by John Cogswell.)

Yet, which comes first—the design idea you want to enhance with a coloured gemstone, or the gemstone you want to design around? Did the planets suddenly align when you landed your gaze on a stone and, out of nowhere, the design just happened, your imagination and creativity magically sparked?

“Adding stones to your designs is like decorating a tree,” says Rémi Sayegh, a Montréal-based stone setter. “It is all about light and life. It is an art.”

However, he cautions, adding too much to a piece may tip it into garish.

The artfulness of adding stones is a notion shared by Joe Bertucci of Bertucci Jewellers, a high-end design and manufacturing studio in Westmount, Qué.

“The perception of beauty of a piece of jewellery and the stones a designer chooses varies from person to person,” Bertucci says. “Everyone has different tastes, and it is the designer’s quest for beauty that is the art form.”

So, what are some of the most important steps to take on this quest for beauty?

A match made in heaven?

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You have your heart set on a gemstone. Now you have to decide whether it is appropriate for the piece of jewellery you are designing. Will they work together?

There are a number of factors you should consider, including the following:

• type of jewellery (ring, pendant, earrings, etc.);
• particularities of the gemstone (hardness, toughness, cut, treatments, etc.); and
• the person wearing it and his or her lifestyle.

Contemplating these details can help you determine other materials you will use, the suitability of the stone for that piece of jewellery and that client, the setting type, and the final design.

A golden rule

You have to decide the overall esthetic of the finished piece and the materials you will use. This is where your common sense comes in. As a general rule, use finer materials for finer gems. For example, you would surely want to put a beautiful imperial topaz in 18-karat gold, while you may opt for the respectable options of sterling silver or 10-karat gold for a mystic topaz. That said, a stunning setting can elevate the status of even the most humble and flawed of stones.

“Each stone has its own beauty. Each is created by Mother Nature,” says Sayegh, who calls imperfections in gemstones “beauty marks.”

Regardless of how ‘organic’ or freehand your design might be, your setting should be irreproachable. (Often, the contrasts are what give the design its beauty.)

Asking the hard questions

Now it’s time to get down to the nitty gritty and ask questions like, “Is this gem a good choice for the piece I am working on and for my client?”

Some gemstones, such as sapphires, are valiant warriors able to withstand the most brutal of impacts on a daily basis, so they may be a good option for a ring. Others, such as moonstone, will lose their sheen and glory from merely rifling through a purse once or twice. Simply, some gemstones are more suited to certain types of jewellery than others.

When deciding on a gemstone, one of the first things to do is double-check its hardness on the Mohs scale to ensure it will live a long and lustrous life in your design. As an example, tanzanite—with a hardness of 6—may not be the best choice for an everyday ring that will be worn by an active woman who does hands-on landscaping for a living. However, it would make a great cocktail ring.

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Hardness and toughness (also known as tenacity) must never be confused. Hardness is the resistance to scratching, while toughness is the resistance to mechanical and chemical shock. We all know diamond is the hardest substance on Earth; however, due to cleavage, it can crack much more easily and is less tough than polycrystalline jade, which is quite soft at a hardness of 6 on the Mohs scale. (For further details on gem toughness and similar considerations, I recommend taking a gemmology course so you know how to deal with gems in your studio and what care to recommend to clients.)

Similarly, some gem materials are quite brittle and susceptible to chipping—like the lovely tanzanite. You also need to take special precautions in the studio; a surprising number of stones (including iolite, opal, apatite, and sunstone) will not withstand the steam cleaner, let alone the ultrasonic.

Treating a gem right

Lastly, you have to ensure any treatments the gemstone has undergone will remain stable throughout the life of the jewellery, starting with its sojourn in your studio. Oiled emerald earrings will not survive the ultrasonic, for example—and definitely not a dip in the hot tub.

If you are selling your piece, you should always offer the client a care guide. For example, if you have created a turquoise necklace, advise the buyer to put it on after any perfumes and lotions, and to avoid cleaning it in a dipping solution at all costs.

 Set for life

“A well-placed pebble can hold up a mountain.”

~Unknown

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Now you have identified all the foibles of your gemstone, you need to design your setting. It has to be harmonious with the overall esthetic of your design, as well as bring out the beauty of the stone and keep it safe and protected. A well-thought out setting—even one that is delicate and fine—can hold a large, noble gem.

Making the cut

In the world of diamonds, proportions and angles of an ideal cut are based on refraction and scientifically very precise. When it comes to coloured gemstones, on the other hand, there are other criteria for optimal cut in addition to refraction to achieve best brilliance. For example, the decision may also be based on maximum yield or on bringing out the most intense, desirable colour. As a result, your pavilion may be much deeper than the same cut of diamond.

That is one reason you may observe variations on cut. The other may simply be poor manufacturing. It’s important to always keep this in mind when designing and preparing your models, whether in metal, wax, or computer-aided design (CAD).

Hand-select your stones whenever possible so you can compare their dimensions and get them as close to calibrated as possible (meaning those dimensions are standard within the optimal setting norms and are consistent from one stone to another).

Otherwise, your piece will look messy and your setter will growl!

One size does not fit all

Why does size matter? There are two reasons: feasibility and beauty.

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If your setting is not created for your specific stone, you will surely run into issues, even if the length and width are standard. You absolutely have to design based on your stone. There is nothing more frustrating than creating a setting, then receiving the stone and finding it does not fit properly because the girdle is too thick or the pavilion is too deep. Retrofitting is time-consuming and the end result may not be as visually appealing as you imagined.

This may seem logical, but both Bertucci and Sayegh say it is their biggest pet peeve—and it happens all the time, so it warrants mentioning.

 Set me straight

Bertucci also stresses the importance of both comfort and wearability.

“You have to ask yourself if the design will work,” he says. “Will it look beautiful on the body? Will a large gemstone in a basket setting flip if it is worn as a pendant? Is the height of the stone appropriate for a bracelet or will it get caught in a sweater sleeve? Is it comfortable?”

Asking these questions up front will help make your design successful.

Set in your ways

Bertucci is a strong advocate of taking your time with a design.

“Play with the gemstones in your design,” he says. “Look at it from all angles, and measure and check the fit and proportions.”

Of course, your personal design style drives the final esthetic of your piece.

“Always go with your taste,” says Sayegh. “Feel your design and you’ll know where to put the stones. Use your imagination to picture the final image.”

Whether it be diamond pavé, a constellation of colours, or a single majestic solitaire, your designs suddenly exude a vibrant new personality when you add gemstones to them. Take the time to explore the rainbow of options, choose well, and set well. Each deliberate choice you make will have an impact on the enduring beauty of the piece you so artfully created.

AT-THE-BENCH TRICKS

If you are wild about wax and want to incorporate gems into your designs, here’s a trick I learned from master wax carver Paolo Vena for a perfect fit. Gently heat up your stone and press it into the wax. Not too much, though—just to the right depth of your stone in your setting. Then, file off the excess. However, it’s critical to keep in mind some stones will bear heat, but many will not. This trick is safe for diamond and sapphire.

[9]Kate Hubley is the owner of Montréal design house K8 Jewelry Concepts Bijoux. She is also a Fellow of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain (FGA), a 2015 Saul Bell Award recipient, and a 2018 Saul Bell Award finalist. Hubley can be reached at kate@k8jewelry.com.

Source URL: https://www.jewellerybusiness.com/features/let-me-set-this-right/

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