By Chris Ploof

Are you thinking about adding alternative or “modern materials” to your showcase? Maybe you already carry them and would like to increase sales or stock? My personal and professional fascination with modern metals is, admittingly, a little intense. In many ways, my passion for these materials is well above average—and with good reason! I hope the first-hand knowledge and insights I have gained from working with these metals for more than 20 years will help clarify why you should want to learn more about modern metals, not be afraid of them, and consider selling more of them in your shop.

First, what is a modern metal? The term refers to materials that, historically, may or may not have been used to make jewellery, but are currently being used in ways that differ from more traditional precious metals used for jewellery fabrication.

You may have heard the term “alternative metals,” which has been broadly used to describe these metals and the trends or fads surrounding them. At this point, however, these metals are not fads or trends. Rather, they are modern materials being purchased by today’s consumers, and they deserve a place in any forward-thinking jewellery retail store. (You will notice, in this article, I have omitted alternative materials like wood, plastic, resin, silicone, and antler. This is because these materials do not have the durability for lifetime wear, which I believe to be one of the most important aspects of jewellery.)

Classifications

Modern metals are a broad and diverse group and not all are equal—far from it, in fact. Steel, tungsten, titanium, cobalt chrome, Damascus steel, meteorite, tantalum, niobium, and mokume-gane all fall into the category. This is a pretty big list, and it does not consider the myriad of “proprietary” alloys offered under various trade names.

Education is a key component for those who offer these materials, and retailers need to be vigilant and do their homework before bringing in new suppliers with these metals. It is also wise, of course, to properly train staff (more about the latter below).

Many modern metals may seem like a good choice for jewellery when, in actuality, the opposite is true. Some, for example, offer the advantage of being hypoallergenic but can be difficult to size. I recommend avoiding these for jewellery. Other options may be attractive and easy to size, but present larger challenges.

Tantalum

Tantalum, for example, has gained in popularity in jewellery in the last couple of years due to its strength and versatility; however, this metal is designated as a “conflict mineral,” according to the Responsible Minerals Initiative (RMI) and other reliable sources. This is an example of a metal not intended for, but being adapted to jewellery use, that is not an ethical choice.

Tungsten, cobalt chrome

Fortunately, there are many modern metals with great strength and durability, such as tungsten and cobalt chrome. These metals are extremely scratch-resistant, and also have a beautiful weight to them, similar to gold. The strength of these metals, however, also works against them. These pieces can be difficult to remove in an emergency and are nearly impossible to size.

Titanium

While lightweight, durable, and recyclable, titanium is pulled from the earth using strip mining techniques, then refined with chlorine. Both of these processes impose environmental issues.

Stainless steel

Stainless steel remains an economical choice, and can be infinitely recycled, making it a very ethical and responsible choice for jewellers. In fact, 60 per cent of the stainless steel on the market is actually recycled. Typical grades used in jewellery are 304 and 316 austenitic steels, which, when properly worked, will not and cannot rust. It can also be used to make patterned Damascus steel, a metal with a rich story (and one I have been working with for decades now). This material works particularly well for jewellery, as Damascus steel rings can typically be sized, can be removed easily in an emergency, and the metal is hypoallergenic. As a bonus, the patterning lends itself to unique, one-of-a-kind styles.

A word of caution, however, regarding some Damascus steel suppliers: There are some people repurposing knife steel for jewellery, which may or may not be stainless steel. These martensitic steels can be heat treated and are great for knives, but will eventually rust, no matter how well prepared they are.

Meteorite

Meteorite is an iron alloy, and not all meteorites work well for jewellery. Indeed, knowledge is critical when choosing a jewellery supplier who uses meteorite.

The material should always be lined with a precious metal. At my studio, we dismiss more than half of the meteorite we buy as being unsuitable for use in jewellery, and the remaining half may require special care to prevent corrosion. Rings made with meteorite can also be more difficult to size as compared to more traditional materials. (Personally, though, I feel this is a small price to pay to have a piece of 4.5-billion-year-old space metal on your finger!)

Mokume-gane

Another popular option in the modern metal category, mokume-gane is actually a technique which involves laminating three or more layers of precious metal together without the use of solder, then manipulating the resulting billet using twisting, cutting, and carving techniques before fabrication. As a metal option for jewellery, it is a bit of an outlier; nonetheless, it is a very important member of the modern metals group.

Mokume-gane used for jewellery should be made out of precious metals. As such, it can be an easy introduction to a customer looking for traditional materials, but also something different and unique. The technique is demanding and produces a beautiful wood-grain pattern made out of precious metals. These rings can easily be sized.

Mokume-gane is expensive, though, due to the waste created in manufacturing. Some companies substitute copper alloys for a lower price point, but these rings will suffer from galvanic corrosion and do not stand the test of time. I recommend not using the copper alloys for commitment or bridal rings.

Why does this matter?

I spoke to several industry experts from Canada and the United States about why they think modern metals are worth carrying, and their thoughts neatly dove-tailed with mine.

Modern metals come with a deep story. Indeed, whether we’re discussing titanium, which is a material prevalent in the aerospace and high-tech world, or stainless Damascus steel, the modern equivalent of the swords of legend from the Vikings and the Crusades, these materials have rich histories that excite consumers. Mokume-gane is directly linked to feudal Japan (where it was pioneered) and to the manufacture of Samurai swords. Narratives such as these lead to customer interest and serve to intensify personal engagement with the product. Further, the manufacturer of modern metal jewellery requires true craftsmanship and an artisanal hands-on approach—it is a far cry from “create a wax, cast it, and finish it.” 

Overwhelmingly, jewellery retailers carrying modern metals appreciate the importance of the story behind the metal.

“At the end of the day, the physical item we are showing is cold metal and hard rocks, but it’s the story that really sells,” says Doug Meadows of David Douglas Diamonds & Jewelry in Marietta, Ga.

“Offering Damascus and mokume-gane allows us to tell the story of the techniques, and of the designers, which helps the client appreciate and enjoy their purchase even more,” adds James Poag of Poags Jewellers in Strathroy, Ont.

David Malka, owner of Malta Diamonds in Portland, Ore., agrees.

“Pull a piece out of the case, hand it to someone, and you can tell if they are excited about it right away,” he says. “Tell the story. Customers will get excited about it; they will talk about it, who made it, and where they bought it. Then, the store becomes part of the story.”

Offering modern metals also provides customers with choice, which is a very important consideration.

“Many years ago, the conversation was around the idea that kids today don’t want to be like their dad,” Meadows explains. “They think, ‘Dad’s got a yellow gold wedding band—I don’t want that.’ They want to be different, and it’s our responsibility to give them that choice.”

Harris Botnick of Worthmore Jewelers in Atlanta, Ga., expresses the value of choice, as well.

“I think one of the advantages of working with a designer who offers modern metals is they are much more willing to customize an item—which today, the jewellery business is all about customization,” he says. “Every client wants to feel like they are part of the design process, and the artists who work in alternative metals are much more likely to be willing to make changes.”

What’s the hold up?

Still on the fence about modern metals? You aren’t alone!

Some stores have been slow to embrace these materials, while some refuse to carry them altogether. After all, these metals are different. They require training from the manufacturer to allow retailer to effectively sell the story, and may require special techniques.

“For stores that might be considering carrying these different materials, you need to consider a few things,” Meadows says. “You need to take some time and get trained from the manufacturer about the uniqueness of what you are offering, then you need to show it. Talk about. Be excited about. Wear it. It will sell.”

Malka also stresses the need for education.

“If you aren’t carrying these items, [learning about them is] an absolute must,” he explains. “The materials are cool, but the process of making the pieces is important. Knowledge goes a long way and makes you a resource for the customer. Whether or not a customer ultimately chooses modern metals will be up to the training of the staff and having samples in the store to show.”

In many cases, resistance stems from misunderstandings. Some store owners, for instance, mistakenly feel that because these modern metals are not fully “precious,” they have no value. After all, you can buy 316 stainless steel for a few dollars a pound—scrap yards purchase waste for under a dollar a pound.

The real value, though, comes from the craftsmanship, the art crafted from the material, and the rich stories behind the creation and history of these metals, Malka explains.

“In most industries, if you have something ‘worthless,’ it’s disposable,” he says. “This is not a disposable product; it’s a product that lasts forever. How can that be worthless? Using the piece every single day surpasses the monetary value.”

Botnick agrees.

“I think items [made from modern metals] really are pieces of art, and not just jewellery,” he says. “The uniqueness of each piece is what makes it so special. It’s also nice they aren’t for everybody. That’s what makes them even more special.”

There are also many artisans pairing modern metals with precious materials—which creates a completely different multi-colour look and greatly increases the value of a piece, elevating it to greater cost than a plain precious metal band. The wide range of pricing and design styles is another one of the compelling reasons to carry a variety of modern metal items.

“We find these materials [tungsten, ceramic, titanium] fill the gap for us in price, mainly for fashion ring purchases,” Poag says. “Designer Damascus and mokume bands tend to be in line, price wise, with precious metal bands, so the purchase is more about the client wanting something unique than it is about price. Even though we carry all these materials in all price points, our bridal is 80 to 90 per cent designer Damascus, mokume, or traditional precious metal.”

Another incorrect objection heard time and time again is modern metal rings are low quality or low end. Of course, this can be true in all styles of jewellery manufacturing—the key is to work with a supplier who consistently delivers high quality with a great story. Indeed, some of the more expensive modern metal rings take no more time to sell than the basic offerings and come with the advantage of making a higher margin.

Botnick’s experience supports this notion.

“I don’t think lower prices are what directs our customers to these items,” he says. “It’s really not a price issue. Some of the mokume-gane and other rings can be more expensive than a plain gold ring.”

In a nutshell, having modern metals in your store’s showcases gives you something different to offer customers who want unique pieces of jewellery to represent their own style and taste. These materials are durable and beautiful, and, because they aren’t mass produced (especially materials like mokume-gane and Damascus steel), they give you a chance to tell a story and compete on value—not just price.

Chris Ploof, an award-winning jewellery designer and metalsmith, founded Chris Ploof Designs in 2004. A specialist in modern metals, Ploof is a renowned expert in Damascus steel and Mokume Gane. His hand-forged metal jewellery designs are crafted in his solar-powered studio in Massachusetts. Ploof’s work has led to consulting projects all over the world, as well as multiple awards from the Santa Fe Symposium for his research and discoveries and countless mentions in various global trade publications.