Pearl talk: The young and hip look to a jewellery classic
by charlene_voisin | June 1, 2012 9:00 am
By Stacey Escott
Portrayed as classy, confident, elegant, yet fashionable, Jackie Onassis, Coco Chanel, and the Queen usually spring to mind when it comes to pearls. In the movie, The Iron Lady, Meryl Streep portrays the powerful Margaret Thatcher, who is rarely seen in the film without her beloved double strand of pearls.
Each of these women was known to strut with the refinement and grandeur that led to their legacy, and their pearls always played a starring role.
Today, the pearl is no longer limited to your grandmother’s jewellery box. Younger women want in on the action and now have the options to make the underwater gem a regular featured player in their daily fashion routines.
Although the Queen wears them well, Hollywood royalty like Sandra Bullock and Angelina Jolie have been spotted in pearls, whether as a traditional single strand or something completely unexpected and new. These days, pearls are being combined with different gemstones, silver, and even leather, stacked on top of each other for a layered look. Their price compared to other materials also adds to the appeal.
“Freshwater pearls are very affordable, so a lot of designers are incorporating them into their more fashion-forward and funky designs,” says Grace Hou, owner of Crown Pearls in Toronto. “In that sense, they are very versatile and I see a lot of younger people picking them up.”
Pearl jewellery has traditionally had a very understated look, however, designers are making bolder statements these days. Hou says pearls are being used more with leather and silver to get an edgier look. The gem has become a staple that can be worn as an everyday accessory or can be geared to work with an elegant evening style, she adds.
Whites, greys, and peacock colours like dark blue, purple, and black are gaining most favour with consumers, Hou says, while the longer strands of pearls are also being sought after by the younger crowd. Whether going for the layered look or using them as belts, bracelets, or necklaces, Hou says the idea is to have fun and to experiment.
A modern spin on a classic
Duvall O’Steen, Yvel’s marketing and communications specialist, says pearls will always have that old-fashioned feel. However, they are becoming more and more fashionable among the younger generation, with newer designs taking that classic quality and adding a unique, updated twist.
“Pearls have a very traditional connotation and yet the designs, the types of pearls, and the way they are being used in fashion have become very modern,” O’Steen explains. “That is the way you get the younger consumer in.”
Longer necklaces are really hot right now, she says, whether it’s strands or a station necklace combining gold and pearls.
“The longer looks are very important and certainly runway-worthy and relevant right now,” O’Steen notes, adding the price point sweet spot for Yvel seems to be in the $1000 to $2500 range.
The way of the white, perfectly round pearl has been pushed to the side for the more obscure and unusually coloured pearl. Last year, Yvel responded to this growing trend with a pastel collection, offering pinks, peaches, and lavenders.
“They have the allure of pearls that has somewhat of a traditional relevance in every woman’s wardrobe. However, they’re new and no one else in your neighbourhood is going to have those colours,” O’Steen explains, adding baroque pearls are also enticing the younger, hipper client.
Brides provide great opportunities for retail jewellers and designers to attract life-long customers, O’Steen says, emphasizing pearls’ association to the big day.
The blushing bride shops around for that strand of pearls for herself or her bridesmaids and may be pleasantly surprised to see what else is available in various collections. It also helps that designers like Chanel have featured the versatility of the pearl in recent runway shows; younger women notice these trends and want to emulate them.
Mixing it up
Combination pieces are currently hot in today’s fashion. Eva Hartling, director of public relations and events for Birks & Mayors, says designers are mixing different coloured pearls with various metals. Bestsellers include pairing sterling silver and pearls.
“I think this is something that is very recent and trendy right now—it’s definitely something that is appealing to a younger crowd,” she explains.
Birks stores across Canada are seeing a variety of age groups being drawn to buying pearls, Hartling notes. As pearls are a classic when it comes to jewellery, the different ways in which they can be worn give them that younger appeal. She says jewellery with diamond accents, Tahitian pearls, and brighter colours like pink, offer a fresher take on a classic look.
“Colour is back in jewellery,” Hartling says. “Coloured gemstones are really popular and we are really seeing that trend with pearls, as well.”
Anita Agrawal, chief operating officer (COO) for Best Bargains, says pearl jewellery these days is less about being ‘dainty and simple,’ and more about making a statement.
“Younger people seek pearls that work as a complement to other textures and metals, often choosing ones that are generally larger in a variety of shapes, sizes, and colours,” Agrawal explains. “The lustre and shine of pearls work well in contrast with other gemstones and even metals like silver. They can be layered with big chains and accented with multi-coloured stones.”
To maximize its reach, Birks not only uses its catalogue as a major marketing tool, but also incorporates pearls into ad campaigns and social media in an attempt to entice the younger consumer who is looking for something traditionally stylish, yet unique.
A price point for everyone
As a timeless piece of jewellery that almost everyone can afford to own, a wide range of price points where pearls are concerned also helps attract the younger buyer.
Hartling says a pair of freshwater pearl earrings at Birks can be purchased for as low as $110, while a freshwater pearl necklace can be scooped up for $350. Prices can soar into the tens of thousands of dollars with Akoya, South Sea, and Tahitian pearls, but now with the sterling silver and leather combinations and the affordability of the authentic freshwater pearl, younger women can afford them, too, she adds.
Peter Stein, president of Toronto pearl distributor, MCD Pearls, says the key is to play up the variety of pearls and their relatively low cost compared to other gems.
“There are so many things that can be done because with pearls—you get a natural product, it is lively, it has interesting colours, it will last, and it’s not that expensive,” he says. “You can come in at any level. So for a jeweller, it should be a very, very good point of sale and an easier sale compared to other jewellery.”
But even though pearl pieces might be easier to sell than some of the more expensive jewellery, Stein says a lack of knowledge about the variety of pearls and their nuances may be resulting in a certain amount of hesitation among retailers to carry them.
“They don’t think it sells,” he explains. “They don’t know about pricing, they don’t understand the fashion side of it”¦ When you look at any magazine today and you see what’s done with pearls, it is phenomenal.”
Hou says the fact freshwater pearls are inexpensive is one of the main reasons they have become so appealing. To capture the younger market, designers should be taking advantage of their affordability.
In post-recession times, purchasing a luxury item is still a decision most don’t take lightly—people want good quality for their dollar. O’Steen says the younger consumer is looking for a style that will last, which is why a traditional or classic element is also important. It’s an investment that needs to stand the test of time.
“They want to be traditional, but they don’t want to look exactly like their mother or grandmother—they all want to be as classic as Coco Chanel, and there are ways to do so that are very fashion-forward,” she adds.
For the boys
According to Pierre Akkelian, president of Canadian Gem in Montreal, younger consumers are turning to pearl jewellery for two reasons. First, it is affordable, and second, designers are creating pieces that enhance the styles of today’s woman. Whether it’s for an office setting or a casual evening out, pearls can be worn for all occasions, even where gentlemen are concerned.
While pearl jewellery for men may not be a given in most stores, more designers are setting their sights on this market, Akkelian notes. A single Tahitian pearl on a leather cord beckons to the water sports enthusiast, for instance. Akkelian says he personally presented one of his company’s Tahitian pearl designs to actor Johnny Depp, who coincidently, was already wearing a long leather necklace adorned with small pearls.
“Globally, there are countries like Spain where pearl jewellery (for men) is very much in fashion, or in Italy, you have a lot men wearing leather bracelets with pearls on them,” Akkelian adds.
It may not yet be as popular in North America, he says, “but it’s coming.”
As a supplier, Stein says retailers have to keep up to date with trends and continue to push the boundaries. A style that may have worked five years ago may not be in vogue today.
“If you are not trying new things and giving people new experiences, you’ll get left behind,” he adds.
Even though pearls have never really gone out of style, the creativity and willingness of designers of late to bring about new fashion trends is sure to offer the younger consumer a classy and chic piece of jewellery that also lets her be confident in her own funky way.
Stacey Escott is a journalist and freelance writer based in Hamilton, Ont. She covers various topics ranging from breaking news to community issues to engaging personal stories. Escott studied journalism at Sheridan College and enjoys expanding her body of work through different writing styles and new and interesting subjects.
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