by jacquie_dealmeida | July 29, 2016 9:00 am
By Jacquie De Almeida
Science tells us Labradorite’s telltale labradorescence is a reflection of light off its twinning surface, creating a spectacular play of colour when viewed from different angles.
But for Canadian designer Rodica Frunze, the translucent feldspar’s glow—reminiscent of the Aurora Borealis—holds deeper meaning.
“Its ever-changing appearance is a wonderful metaphor for how we experience life,” says Frunze of the stone at the heart of her pendant, ‘Adore.’ The design took first place in the metal clay category at the 2016 Saul Bell Awards.
“I feel an affinity with the interpretation of the Aurora Borealis by many northern indigenous peoples as ‘Spirit Skies,’ she explains. “Their stories speak of the spirits of the ancestors illuminating the skies. Likewise, Labradorite speaks to me as an invitation to experience life beyond the constructions of the mind. Very often while exploring a new design, I look at my collection of Labradorite to find the stone that reflects the emotion I am trying to capture.”
Based in Nanaimo, B.C., Frunze is one of three Canadians winners at Rio Grande’s Saul Bell Design Awards. Justine Quintal of Carignan, Que., and Justine B. Gagnon of Repentigny, Que., captured first and second place in the emerging jewellery artist category. This year’s awards saw two other Canadians’ work honoured. Toronto’s Shuang Feng was a finalist in the both the gold/platinum and alternative metals/materials categories, while the judges named John Carnes a finalist in the silver/Argentium silver category.
Named after the company’s founder, the competition is now in its 16th year. Rio Grande announced the winners at a celebration dinner held in May during the Santa Fe Symposium in Albuquerque, N.M. A panel of judges chose first- and second-place winners in the following six categories: gold/platinum, silver/Argentium silver, metal clay, enamel, hollowware/art objects, and alternative metals/materials. Prizes were also handed out in the emerging jewellery artist category for designers 21 years and younger.Â
When designing jewellery, Frunze says her goal is to elicit an emotional response from its owner and all who see the piece. She says ‘Adore,’ which was created using bronze metal clay, is representative of her work, incorporating archetypal symbols as a way of initiating the emotional discussion within the viewer.
“I believe art is a form of communication that extends far beyond the spoken word,” she tells Jewellery Business. “It has the capacity to evoke different interpretations based on the various emotions a viewer may experience. Since symbols create a subconscious reaction, my objective is to capture this attention and to direct it toward the viewers’ inner feelings.”
Quintal, who won first place in the emerging jewellery artist category, says her one-of-a-kind ‘l’Oiseau de la Nuit’ was inspired by tropical birds. The piece is also representative of a sunset, reflected in its name, which translates as ‘Bird of the Night.’
“I represented the lightness and imposing character of tropical birds with large feather-like shapes made with square silver wire, and
I also added a textured silver sheet to represent the birds’ texture,” she explains. “On that same sheet, I pavé-set blue sapphire, blue topaz, and peridot to recreate the colours of the sky when the sun is setting.”
A graduate of l’École de Joaillerie de Montréal, Quintal says the necklace is one of three pieces of jewellery she made as her final project. While artistry is important, creating wearable jewellery is also critical, she says.
“I always picture a woman’s body, whether it is her neck, fingers, ears, or even wrist,” she explains. “When creating a piece of jewellery,
I want it to be comfortable, so I always keep that in mind when I am thinking of new ideas and concepts.”
Quintal says design competitions, such as the Saul Bell Awards, can significantly help young artists gain exposure within the industry and among consumers.
“Participating in some craft fairs and exhibiting jewellery in some galleries requires peer recognition, one thing that winning the Saul Bell Design Awards competition gives me,” she says. “The award ceremony was also a great place to meet fantastic people from the industry. I will surely participate in other competitions like this one in the future.”
Frunze says she is thrilled to be sharing the award spotlight with her husband and business manager, Steve Lynch.
“Wearing an artist’s hat and a jewellery maker’s hat is already a significant challenge, but to undertake the operation of a business would be a serious distraction from my work,” she says. “Steve confronts the formidable task of translating my artistic voice into today’s technologically driven sales and marketing. He also plays a very important role in many of my design choices, to the extent that I really consider my winning a Saul Bell Design Award as a partnership.”
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