Elements of style
Photos © Arthur Graham
Our workshop specializes in micropavé, following guidelines that allow creation of complex pieces. They start with a simple principle: proportions based on stone sizes. This ensures even the most basic styles, such as bead setting, use proportions to define cutting depths and thickness. This in turn allows a designed piece to stand out. Fishtail technique is one example where diamonds are accented visually by proportional cuts; an illustration of these effects can be seen in the fishtail photo on page 78. Personally, I love setting styles that push boundaries—together with a designer, one can accomplish something truly magnificent.
Three-sided pavé is an example of an advanced setting style that has been gaining popularity. Here, diamonds are set very closely on all three sides of a shank, making the ring’s metal surface disappear. This style is utilized easily on an eternity band, but its intricacy can be applied to various forms. Using this to set an entire halo and shank of a ring, its under-galleries, or prongs, or to create earrings that sparkle from every angle, are simple examples. Adding stones to three sides of any traditional element of jewellery (assuming it is technically viable) will refresh and enhance its look.
The setting work or style should accent the design of an item. For instance, using a bright cut on a simple halo can give it a bolder statement. The fluidity of metal is highlighted, creating a beautiful dance of light the eye can follow as the piece is moved. Current design trends emphasize making jewellery as delicate as possible, and various setting styles match them. French-style pavé and fishtail setting are two of the most popular.
Depending on how bold the item design is, it is usually best not to mix setting styles; one example is French-style pavé on the shank of a ring, with bead setting around the halo of a centre stone. Each setting style creates continuity and rhythm within an item, giving the viewer a sense all elements contribute to its unity. This is obviously not a set rule, but it should be a consideration when designing the look of an item.
