An ever-evolving industry
As we look to the future, one significant development to keep in mind is machine setting, a technique that has been shown at many recent trade shows. It is becoming increasingly important for jewellers to ask themselves whether strategies like this will become more common in the near future. Will they replace a human touch when it comes to making setting decisions?
Machine setting could diminish the labour cost of manual pavé on simple, regular jewellery forms like rings. However, it probably imposes even stricter requirements on stone dimensions and regularity, as the machine lacks the human touch, which can compensate for a lot of imperfections of the product and stones.
Another discussion will be about trends. I believe simple stones set on the shoulders will no longer be small, but will be more than 1.3 mm (0.051 in.) in diameter, and less micro will be done in general. One of the reasons for this is setting large quantities of small stones makes jewellery items more expensive due to labour costs. Therefore, when micro is asked for, I believe the expectation will be to pull off something exceptional and very precise—something that seems almost engineered.
Stone setting—and pavé setting in particular—is a key element of the jewellery creation process and a major attribute of the final product. Whether you are setting large, very expensive coloured stones or creating high-quality micropavé, the process requires mindful preparation from all participants in the development process and, at the end, the skillful work of a setter supported by good equipment and tools. All these contribute to the final impression and quality of a piece.
The author would like to sincerely thank Murtaza Ali, GIA, G.G. (from Al Joher), for his time and support, and Arthur Graham for his photography.
Patrick Dacko has been the owner of Toronto’s Atelier Dacko since 2016. He is a member of the Canadian Jewellers Association (CJA) and specializes in creation and setting of high-end pieces. College-educated in jewellery, Dacko apprenticed under Daniel Piechula in Regensburg and holds diplomas in setting from Jura’s school. He started his apprenticeship in Toronto at Platinum Unlimited. Dacko also works with local jewellery designers and manufacturing firms. He can be reached via e-mail at patrick@atelierdacko.com.
