Can I afford it?
There are many options, configurations, and price points when it comes to learning CAD and introducing custom jewellery to your store. When it is time to purchase software, there is a tradeoff: a good, basic engineering program will cost you around $1000 U.S., but it will take a lot of time to master. While doable, you could save a lot of time buying a jewellery-specific CAD program; however, these programs cost between $3000 to $8500 U.S. To minimize the upfront costs, most companies will offer you terms, or you could opt to lease-to-own the software and/or computer.
Training, either one-on-one or in a group can cost around $2000 U.S. for a week. Video training can range from $300 to $1000 U.S. Having access to the Internet can give you access to YouTube videos showing some good tips and tricks for using CAD. In many areas, local schools offer evening classes on basic CAD use, and private schools offer two- or six-month programs to train you on the engineering fundamentals of building a piece of jewellery. This kind of in-depth training can cost anywhere from $5000 to $20,000 U.S.
In addition to any training, you will need a good quality computer to implement your newly learned skills ($800 to $2000). If you set aside $250 a week for your “CAD fund,” within a year you will have enough money saved to purchase a good software program, a week’s worth of training, and a decent computer.
In recent years, 3D printers have become much more affordable. You could invest in one for around $3000 U.S. That said, it is too early in the technology’s development to know how long a printer at this price will last or how many print jobs you will get at a reasonable resolution. For a model at this relatively low price point, training is likely not offered. However, you could use it to print a model for your client to try on, and then send the file to a trade shop for output at a higher resolution, casting, and finishing. If you are printing three to five designs a week, it might make more sense to spend the money on a better printer (starting at $15,000 U.S.). This will save you a bit of money as the trade shop does not have to do reprints.
Can I learn it?
The answer to this question often leads to more questions than answers. How long will it take to master given my current schedule? Is my staff on board? Is there a staff member I can invest time and money in to learn these skills?
One of my former students, John Vaccaro, owner of Beverly Hills Manufacturing, said to me many years ago: “I am going to be one of your worst students, but I will also be one of your best.” True to his word, Vaccaro initially struggled in my class, but in three months he was building very complicated, invisible set models for mass production. He made the decision to work on CAD every night. He had the drive and determination to make it work. In the 13 years I have known him, he has expanded his business into one of Canada’s top manufacturers—an example of the success that can be found with a little commitment and desire to make CAD work.
“Shele, I wish I could move forward with CAD, but I need my staff to be on board.” This was the response I received from Steve Parker of Customgold in response to my CAD-focused e-mails and phone calls. Parker was facing a lot of resistance from his staff; he has a talented bunch of goldsmiths and setters who were concerned their jobs were going to be replaced by a computer. It wasn’t until his youngest daughter, Michele, mentioned she was interested in learning CAD that things started to change for Parker. With his designer, Lilian Jensen, also on board, Parker took the plunge. It did not take very long for the rest of the team to change their minds. Today, Michele is surrounded by a team with a wealth of knowledge and expertise she can turn to whenever there is a design challenge.
Another client, Ami Fieberg of Classic Creations, has a beautiful high-end store in midtown Toronto. Ami and his brother, Sam, carry the top brand and have a well-established clientele. They have a workshop at the back of their store with a goldsmith and setter to provide faster service for their customers. So why bother with CAD? Recently, Fieberg hired two young goldsmiths from Georgian College, Lacey Goyette and Divya Gupta. Although these ladies are not yet on the bench for Classic Creations, they have gemmology and goldsmithing knowledge, which are an asset for CAD work. This allowed Classic Creations to create a CAD department.
Is it worth it?
Why spend the money on in-house custom design? And why invest in CAD? The short answer is CAD is here to stay. Just like Vaccaro, Parker, and the Fieberg brothers, there are many other examples of individuals who have embraced this technology, and in doing so, have created a platform for growth and innovation. Astronaut Neil Armstrong famously said, “That’s one small step for man; one giant leap for mankind.” Of course, we are not talking about landing on the moon, CAD has a more earthly appeal, but it all starts with just one small step.
Shele Letwin is a graduate of the jewellery arts program at Toronto’s George Brown College, an award-winning designer, and a CAD/CAM instructor. She has been a regular guest speaker at trade shows in both Canada and the United States. Letwin can be reached via e-mail at slletwin@gmail.com.
