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Tucson 2013: Gemstone classics and exotics entice buyers

Colour confidence

8-mm Siberian AAA-grade jade bead necklace by Jade West Corp.
8-mm Siberian AAA-grade jade bead necklace by Jade West Corp.

Diamonds are fine, says Best Bargains CEO, Anita Agrawal, but they’re not everything to jewellery collectors. The Toronto-based company exports Canadian-made value-priced jewellery to more than 30 countries, so it’s a keen tracker of emerging trends that favour adding three to five different coloured stones on a single item. This year, some of their most popular sellers were large carat-sized, all-gemstone dangle earrings. Multicoloured gemstone jewellery actually broadens their utility with collectors who can find at least one colour from the piece to match the clothing they’ll wear.

Similarly, perennial couture exhibitor Paula Crevoshay brought bold-sized rings, as well as dramatically proportioned earrings and pendants, all colour-on-colour. An early adapter of incorporating analogous colours in a single piece, Crevoshay’s lavish use of gemstones in her collection reflects her painterly background and the use of colour to assist with the impression of an item’s dimension. One of her offerings, a flower-motif pendant, placed amethyst, kunzite, purple sapphire, and ruby on a single piece in an arrangement that lent a realistic sense of depth and perspective to it.

When the economic mood brightens, buyers usually venture back into high-ticket precious stones, knowing their tony customers are eager to collect again.

Weisiger explains, “We’ve found recently that fine sapphire and quality alexandrite are doing very well. There has definitely been an increase in higher-end sales for coloured stone designs, as people seem to be searching out both rarity and quality.”

Palladium cuff by Todd Reed  with brown diamonds (1.618 ctw), grey diamonds (.21 ctw), and white diamonds (1.875 ctw).
Palladium cuff by Todd Reed with brown diamonds (1.618 ctw), grey diamonds (.21 ctw), and white diamonds (1.875 ctw).

Red carpet watchers have witnessed a definite shuffle away from diamond-draped celebrities. Daring designers now turn out bold couture jewels in exotics like chrysoprase or labradorite, stones with which the general population is not familiar. “Coloured gemstones have been gaining popularity in the media for quite a while and it seems like consumer demand for colour is finally catching up. We feel the demand for bright and fun colour will remain strong throughout the coming years,” Weisiger predicts.

At Tucson, Omi has been a consistent source of rare stones like alexandrite. “Since there is not much new fine alexandrite being produced, consumers are drawn to invest in this stone now,” Weisiger says. “Motivation for retailer purchase is driven by customer demand.” And most retailers came looking for specific sizes and shapes to accommodate the design their customer wanted.

The big buzz

Although not a new type of adornment, big cuffs produced in a wild mix of metals, stones, and designs dominated the show in the finished goods department. When the economy tanked, people wore subdued fashion, with unassertive accessories. This year, it’s a new deal and a new feel. Vendors flaunted dazzling cuffs with price tags climbing into the six figures. These audacious pieces demand attention, infusing the wearer with confidence and a nuance of power.

Designer Loretta Castoro witnessed the highly competitive spirit with wide cuffs amongst other exhibitors. After inspecting her cuffs, some manufacturers wondered aloud how she could have constructed hers so large, she reports. Nevertheless, customers were buying important pricier gold cuffs from her, even overtaking her silver collection.

Todd Reed’s signature style of organic gem-encrusted jewels included exciting cuffs in bodacious proportions, but never cliché. He shares his own take on what makes them must-haves now. “Cuffs are dramatic and strong. The scale can be large, so larger designs are more accepted. I think a woman’s forearms are very sexy, the wrist, too. A cuff is a fabulous statement piece for any woman.”

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