VicenzaOro: Winter 2013

by charlene_voisin | May 1, 2013 9:00 am

By Jacquie De Almeida

Elisabetta Molina Valerani removes one of her latest gold designs from its case, placing it next to a few of her signature pieces.

All are exquisite and in the unmistakable style of Garavelli, a Valenza-based manufacturer. None look out of place, save for perhaps a barely noticeable difference in colour in one. In fact, if you didn’t look at the necklace closely enough, you would think it was just the booth lighting bouncing off its surface.

Instead, the explanation is in the piece itself. Garavelli’s taken two of its more successful designs and re-worked them using nine-karat gold, rather than its staple, 18-karat.

“It’s brand new,” Valerani says from her booth at VicenzaOro’s ‘Winter.’ “We’re testing it here in Italy and at New York, Centurion, and the Hong Kong shows. It’s a way to keep the price of gold in a design down to what it was five years ago.”

That translates into about half the cost at the retail level, she explains. It’s perhaps also an evolution in Italian design, particularly among manufacturers like Garavelli that mainly export.

While the fair has traditionally been a hub for local retailers, the growing presence of international buyers—some of them part of organized buying groups—has become apparent.

It’s a result of the emphasis the show’s organizer is placing on bringing the ‘Made in Italy’ brand to emerging markets eager for Italian design.

The fair’s focus on instilling optimism among exhibitors and buyers alike came to the fore in its theme, “The Future. Now.” In fact, fair president Roberto Ditri’s emphasis on the word, ‘now,’ when speaking about the theme at various press events helped convey the message that today’s work lays the foundation for tomorrow’s rewards.

Part of that includes the announcement the fair’s invitation-only event—About J—will bring together 35 select Italian and international brands, 100 international buyers and top Italian retailers, and journalists from leading Italian and foreign publications. Running from Sept. 4 to 7, About J will be held in Venice this year, a location combining Italian history and culture with artistry and manufacturing.

The fair’s emphasis on collaboration to build the Italian brand also came in the form of a new deal with the Associazione Orafa Valenzana (AOV), which represents Italy’s Valenza district, a manufacturing centre for high-quality jewellery and precious stone mountings.

The agreement identifies Fiera di Vicenza as a strategic partner in the organization of national and international events for the jewellery sector, and premium jewellery in particular. The deal also calls for AOV to promote About J starting with the 2013 edition.

As work continues on a pavilion and multi-storey parking garage to be completed this year, the fair announced a new exhibition formula it is dubbing the ‘Boutique Show.’ Starting with ‘Winter’ 2014, exhibitors will be organized into ‘communities’ reflecting categories identified by TrendVision, the fair’s independent research centre.

VicenzaOro’s commitment to staying ahead of the curve is one of the main reasons behind a series of international summits focusing on future business trends that will lead each of the fairs this year. The discussions will centre on issues such as new scenarios and distribution markets, online trading opportunities and through social networks, strategies for promoting brands, advertising and promotion, forecasting, new perspectives for luxury goods, and the evolved consumer. Chaired by Financial Times writer, Simon Brooke, ‘Winter’s’ inaugural summit brought together industry experts like Nadja Swarovski of Swarovski; Artak Udumyan, executive director of the Armenian Jewellers Association (AJA); and designers Stephen Webster and Roberto Coin.

“To develop the jewellery sector, we have to communicate on an international level,” Ditri told a packed house of about 2000 people. “It is important that people get their information from all over the world. If the place of demand is far, we either have to go there or bring it to us. We can’t just operate in Italy or the United States or in Europe. We have to operate in the world to be successful.”

China continues to be one market to which the fair has been keen to promote the ‘Made in Italy’ brand, as consumers there look for brand-name product with cachet.

According to Jenny Jing, editor-in-chief of Harper’s Bazaar Jewelry China, jewellery consumption in that market last year totalled 45 billion euros ($60 billion Cdn). In that part of the world, a 100,000-euro ($135,000 Cdn) yearly budget for jewellery is not unheard of among elite shoppers, Jing said at the summit. However, breaking into markets like China requires caution. In Russia, another so-called BRIC country, deep pockets are a must as well, says Udumyan, who is also vice-president of Russia-based Estet Jewelry House.

“Russia is still in transition,” he said. “It’s not the same kind of market as Europe or the United States. Partnerships are very important because they provide knowledge of the country and other important connections. If you don’t want to have a partner, you have to invest a lot of money, maybe $3 million to supply goods, $1 million for offices and logistics, and maybe $1 million for advertising. This is a lot of money for small or medium-sized companies, so a partnership is a very good idea.”

Notable trends from the fair’s aisles included labradorite, silver- and gold-plated jewellery, and snake designs. Coloured metals paired with stones also stood out, as did one particular finish that is quietly making its presence known: black rhodium.

Adding subtle edginess, mystery, and glamour to designs, black is the new gold, says Divyanshu Navlakha of Sutra. “It brings an element of drama to a piece, especially when mixed with coloured stones. They just pop. You’re probably going to see more and more black rhodium being used,” he notes. “It’s easier to match with an outfit—it is basically more versatile.”

Manuel Martin, director of U.S. operations for Utopia, says most buyers are aware black rhodium wears off over time. Yet, like the fact white gold requires rhodium plating to remain white, consumers still need to be educated about black rhodium’s characteristics. “It lasts a long time when plated over gold, and it doesn’t wear off on clothes or skin. It’s also something that can be put back very easily.”

In an industry where all deal with the same basic issues like fixed materials costs, Ricardo Vianna of Vianna Joias in Brazil says the number one challenge he faces is simply remaining different enough from the competition. For that, he relies on a team of four designers, each with their own style and take on what appeals to consumers.

“This is what makes it possible to come up with new designs,” Vianna says. “Everybody is always creating something different, contributing something unique that’s inside them. We are obligated to be innovative—we want to go against the grain.”

Coming up with innovative and original designs is one thing. Being able to source the materials to bring them to life is another. Jonathan Le Vian, sales executive for Le Vian, says lower output of brown diamonds from Rio Tinto’s Argyle mine is starting to impact their own production. With greater demand among brides-to-be for Le Vian’s line of brown diamond fashion rings, the company is producing a line of matching bands, increasing the need for the stones. The ‘accidental bridal designer’ is closely keeping an eye on the matter, and expects to see steadier supply in 2014 as work moves farther underground.

“We’ve been preparing for [the shortage] and collecting our stones in advance so we have the capability of producing what we need,” Le Vian says.

Expanding a business—even one with 500 years of history behind it like Le Vian—to a new market has its challenges, particularly when it comes to educating the consumer about a stone that is not traditionally valued the same way as colourless diamonds. “In India, they believe a brown diamond is an impure diamond, while in fact, it’s a natural fancy-coloured diamond,” Le Vian said. “This was the mindset 10 years ago in the United States. Through our marketing and education, we trained the consumer to understand the true value and that they’re actually rarer than yellow diamonds. We see the same potential in India. They’re very quickly modernizing.”

Modernization is the focus of T-GOLD, VicenzaOro’s technology show, which runs in conjunction with the fair and draws techies from across the jewellery industry.

So what’s the next big thing in machinery? According to Daniel Kundakci of Canadian wholesaler, European Design Jewellery, laser engravers that provide more cutting options, as well as deeper cuts, are poised to attract interest among retailers. Machines that build designs from gold dust rather than wax may also appeal to manufacturers, he says.

“For companies that do a lot of casting, that might be the next big thing for them, as it eliminates the wax process,” says Kundakci, whose company distributes laser machines.

The next big thing, of course, is the focus of TrendVision, the fair’s independent research centre, and its creative director Paola De Luca. TrendVision 2014 provides an 18-month look ahead at the hottest designs manufacturers should keep in mind when creating upcoming collections.

According to De Luca, there are five consumer profiles to consider.

• The ‘minimalist’ encompasses generation Y (i.e. 20 to 35 year olds) and generation X (i.e. 35 to 55 year olds) who are price-conscious and, therefore, buying quality, collectable pieces that can be personalized, such as bead jewellery. Chunky, soft links will be in demand, as well as layers of long chains.
• The ‘creative’ consumer is very young, eager to spend money to keep up with trends, and fascinated by technology and design. Colour is key for this group, as are unusual gemstone cuts.
• The ‘authentic’ shopper is older and sophisticated and looking for product inspired by local flair and crafted nearby. Recycled metals and gemstone pieces are favoured by this group.
• The ‘nostalgic’ is fascinated by cinematography and history, their taste in jewellery leaning toward vintage esthetics, appliqué, carved gemstones, and filigree.
• The ‘Bohemian’ is artsy and a nomad at heart. Sliced agate or minerals, embroidery and textile, leather, weaving, talismans, and amulets resonate with this group.

VicenzaOro ‘Spring’ runs from May 18 to 22.

Source URL: https://www.jewellerybusiness.com/features/vicenza-oro-winter-2013/

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