A structured approach
Several aspects of design are of concern when it comes to structure. For starters, the metal used is a major consideration. White and red gold alloys are harder and less malleable than yellow or green gold, so the latter requires heavier claws to offer the same durability. Platinum’s high malleability, ductility, and strength allow for comparatively delicate stone setting and proportions, although when a piece is cast rather than fabricated, much of this benefit is reduced.
For rings, the shank’s width and thickness are often a point of discussion between the jeweller and client. Personal esthetics can vary. For instance, I don’t like a skinny shank with a huge stone on top, as to me it looks unbalanced. In contrast, someone else may prefer this look because it focuses the eye on the stone. If the client insists on a thin band, however, a shank can be narrow in width provided this is compensated for with increased thickness. Modifying the cross-section of the shank to half-round or knife-edge can help create a more delicate appearance, while still maintaining strength and durability.
Even plain bands benefit from a bit more heft. Typically, I will not make a band thinner than a height of 1.80 mm and often increase this to 2 mm or more. The choice of metal is also a factor here.
Stone setting is the most common weak point when it comes to structure or lack thereof. Princess and other sharp-corner, square-cut stones are a particular concern. The pointy corners of these cuts are extremely vulnerable to damage, even among diamonds that are otherwise durable. I see many commercial ring settings with round wire claws that are simply too delicate to provide any degree of long-term security. The preferred claw style for these stones is ‘L.’ Round wire claws can be used provided they have enough substance. In both cases, it is important the metal at the points of the stone is removed, so there is no direct metal pressure on the vulnerable corners. Proper support of a bearing can offer more structure; however, it is preferable the stone doesn’t have to actually rest in the bearing since dirt collecting there can affect the stone’s brilliance. In addition, cleaning is more difficult.
