By Lauriane Lognay
Amethyst has been engraved, sculpted, faceted, tumbled, and even eaten (don’t try this at home, kids) throughout history! This captivating purple gem was once linked to royalty and held the same value as rubies and sapphires during its peak. It was highly sought after due to its purity and stunning colour. Evidence of its use in jewellery can be traced back to ancient Egypt, around 3000 BCE. Even though the amethyst has been studied, cut, and faceted brilliantly in all its aspects, it still has surprises to offer us even today.
So, what is amethyst?
Amethyst is the purple/violet variety of the quartz family. Its colour ranges from pale lilac (called Rose de France on the market) to a deep, saturated purple. It’s a seven on the Mohs hardness scale and is considered a gem with good tenacity, stability, and durability in general.
Amethysts owe their stunning purple/violet-ish hues to trace amounts of iron and natural radiation within the Earth. Its colour may fade over time with prolonged exposure to light and heat, so the gemstone is not as stable as we might think.
Most of our citrines today are actually heated amethyst, whether done naturally or by man—the difference is generally indistinguishable. It doesn’t take a very high temperature; only about 470-750 C is needed to change its colour. It can then get its purple colour back with irradiation if required. Ametrine is the result of such natural heating, being a gemstone that is half yellow (citrine) and half purple (amethyst).
The stone’s name originates from the Greek amethystos, meaning “not drunk.” The humorous name stems from an ancient belief about amethyst’s power: The ability to ward off intoxication! Greek legends associated amethyst with Dionysus, the god of wine and pleasure in relation to this.
Its crystalline structure is known as rhombohedral, typically appearing as an elongated, asymmetrical prism with twin “pyramids” on each side when left unbroken in its rough form. It can also present as a hexagonal prism or exhibit hexagonal colour zoning.
Sourcing the gemstone
This gem can be found pure and plentiful in huge sizes in a plethora of countries, such as Brazil, Uruguay, Canada, Morocco, India, Mexico, Namibia, Siberia, Russia, Sri Lanka, etc.
Our own Canadian source is mostly in Thunder Bay, Ont., but can be generally found in smaller quantities all over Canada.
Siberian amethysts were known for their deep purple colour, which exhibited flashes of red and blue within the gemstone. These amethysts were among the most expensive on the market, but the supply from Siberia has been exhausted for decades. As a result, it is rare to find these stones today, except for those that are part of old stock. A source that came up a few years ago in Tucson but is still relatively new to the market is Moroccan amethysts, observed to have red hair-like inclusions of hematite and hourglass-shaped colour zonings. Moroccan amethysts are considered a breath of fresh air for those who want something a little more out of the ordinary with their birthstones. Depending on its origins (African or Uruguayan, for example), amethyst can have slightly different hues, like a more purplish colour or a more violet colour.
Amethyst as a birthstone
This purple gem was officially added as a birthstone for February in 1912, when the American National Retail Jewellers Association (now known as Jewellers of America) created a standardized list of birthstones.
Before 1912, the assignment of gemstones to specific months varied widely by culture and region. Amethyst became the official choice for February, likely due to its historical prominence.
Imitations, synthetics, and confusions
While amethyst is considered a very affordable gemstone, there are many imitations on the market. Glass and plastic are two of the most well-known.
Some confusions also occur with natural gemstones, such as faceted purple fluorite, scapolite, spinel, sapphire, tanzanite, and iolite.
Differentiating synthetic amethyst from natural amethyst while it’s faceted or cabochon cut set in jewellery is a complicated and costly task. The most one can do is trust the supplier and his sources. If the stone has a few inclusions inside, it may become easier for gemmologists under the microscope; otherwise, it’s almost impossible to tell! This is what I always tell clients: Inclusions make the identity of a gem.
There are few treatments used on amethyst since it’s an inexpensive gemstone. As we mentioned, it is often heated, irradiated and rarely dyed.
Amethysts in the workshop
Under artificial light, the amethyst can appear darker than reality. Prolonged exposure to heat can also alter the colour of the stone, so it’s unwise to solder or repair a piece of jewellery with the amethyst still set in it.
The GIA suggests avoiding thermal shocks, which can fracture and stress the gem. However, ultra-sonic and steamer are generally safe if we avoid high heat and then ice water right after. Big pieces with a history behind them are worth repairing with a lapidary artist in your area, but smaller ones often are sadly not worth the cost of repair.
Amethyst is a gemstone with pleochroism, meaning that depending on the direction of observation, the gem can have two different hues/colours. As it can have two colours, it’s dichroic. One hue can be more reddish, while the other can be more bluish.
A gem in all its glory
Amethyst, with its rich history, continues to captivate the jewellery world. From its origins as a gem of royalty and spiritual significance to its modern role as a February birthstone, this quartz variety remains timeless. Its accessibility, durability, and unique qualities ensure that amethyst retains a special place in the hearts of gem enthusiasts, gemmologists, and artisans alike.
Its ongoing appeal demonstrates that even in a world of ever-changing trends, classic gemstones like amethyst can still surprise and inspire. Amethyst remains a gemstone worth celebrating in colour for those who seek elegance, history, and a touch of mysticism in their jewellery.
Resources
- Guide des pierres precieuse by Walter Schumann
- GIA.edu website
- Precious stones by Max Bauer Volume II
Lauriane Lognay is a fellow of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain (FGA) and has won several awards. She is a gemstone dealer working with jewellers to help them decide on the best stones for their designs. Lognay is the owner of Rippana, Inc., a Montréal-based company working in coloured gemstone, lapidary, and jewellery services. She can be reached at rippanainfo@gmail.com.
